The 117 Multimeter has exceeded my expectations. In addition to all of its features, the display is the best I have seen when compared to other meters. Readings are steady. It is extremely well built. It feels good in your hand and has all the functions I would ever want. I also purchased the TL175 TwistGuard leads. Very flexible silicone, great combination. I believe it's a great value for the price. Very pleased and would highly recommend this meter for any application.

The "low Z" position is especially useful if you are an Automobile mechanic. (I used to be). When looking for 12v issues, you want your measurements to be under a slight "load". Say you have a corroded wire your unaware of, you may see 12v in Normal DCV mode because the the meter puts very little load on it. But if you try to draw any current through it, it would fall to 0v. That "Low Z" mode does that for you. I used to use a 12v Test Light, to prevent reading a "ghost" voltage. There's only 1 meter, Fluke, it's an investment that will last years. I've used one for 45 years, & still have my original 77, still going strong.

Fluke has a reputation for being the best of the best, and I won't argue with that. I've been using this meter for going on two years now and have never had a single issue with it. I haven't even had to change the battery yet. And so I fully expect that this meter will serve me well for many, many years. Until recently, in fact, I thought there was no point in even writing a review: It's a Fluke, and everyone knows you can't go wrong with Fluke. But as time passes and I gain more experience with this meter and more exposure to the broader market, I find that I do have more thoughts about this product than I thought I would. It's really hard to pick out a good, safe, reliable meter for general use. If you have a specific application, and you know exactly what you ... MoreFluke has a reputation for being the best of the best, and I won't argue with that. I've been using this meter for going on two years now and have never had a single issue with it. I haven't even had to change the battery yet. And so I fully expect that this meter will serve me well for many, many years. Until recently, in fact, I thought there was no point in even writing a review: It's a Fluke, and everyone knows you can't go wrong with Fluke. But as time passes and I gain more experience with this meter and more exposure to the broader market, I find that I do have more thoughts about this product than I thought I would. It's really hard to pick out a good, safe, reliable meter for general use. If you have a specific application, and you know exactly what you need for that specific application, then it's at least somewhat easier -- although I still find it a little frustrating that Fluke seems to rob every meter in their lineup of one really useful feature almost as though they're trying to make sure you have to buy two separate meters to meet all your needs. But if, like me, you're a generalist, it becomes even harder. My early multimeter use prior to this product focused primarily on simple DC electronics (and the occasional car battery) using a very cheap INNOVA 3300, which I don't particularly recommend - especially if you're looking for an electrician's meter. I purchased the Fluke 117 after becoming a homeowner and finding myself fussing with more things that are running on mains AC power. I still find myself testing AA batteries and car batteries, but I also find myself evaluating 120V household receptacles and air conditioner run capacitors and poking around inside my load center. And there's really no telling what will come next. Overall, two years later, I think I made the right decision for myself. This Fluke 117 was the best meter I could have bought for my purposes. But it's not feeling as much as I'd hoped like the last meter I'll ever buy, so I'm going to try to provide a little context for those who are meter shopping. First and foremost, while I don't disagree with labeling this an "electrician's multimeter," I do think it can be a little misleading or confusing and requires further explanation. I am not an electrician, but my impression is that real electricians tend to reach for something more like the Fluke T6-600 (or the T5-600, which is probably a better value for the money) as their daily go-to device. It's more nimble for moving around with and shoving in your pocket or tool bag. That product is technically marketed as a "tester" and not a "multimeter", so it wasn't even on my radar when I was meter shopping. I suppose the difference in labeling is to say that it's not the same precision instrument that the "real" multimeters are. You're only going to be measuring voltage in 1-volt increments, for example, and it has a relatively limited set of capabilities that cover just the essentials for an electrician. But that tester is less expensive and I want to note here that it includes one capability not found on the 117: a set of sensing jaws that can measure current up to 200 amps (100 amps on the T5) without breaking the circuit. The 117 is disappointing by comparison when it comes to current measurement. Sure, if you can rig it up so the current flows through the device (which you're not likely to want to do while troubleshooting household circuits), then you can measure up to the basic 10 amps. But the meter doesn't have a milliamp range, which means not only that you cant make really fine current measurements (which I cant say Ive ever needed to do) but also that you can't buy the basic i400 current clamp if you want to add a T5/T6-like no-touch high-current sending capability. You would have to get the much more expensive i410 if you're trying to add that capability -- at which point you're probably going to seriously consider just buying a separate meter that has a built-in clamp. So the complete inability to provide even a halfway economical option for a current clamp is fairly frustrating for an electricians meter and I feel the need to deduct one star. But for any other function, the 117 is a far superior device to the T5 or T6. The 117 will give you more precise readings over a larger range for the things that both meters can measure, and adds capabilities like capacitance (great for troubleshooting a heat pump or other motor with a run capacitor) and low-impedance voltage measurement, which has actually proven a lot more useful than I'd expected, to the point that it feels like a little bit of an oversight that the T5 and T6 don't have it, but I suppose they're trying to keep those devices as simple as possible -- and I do know that some people, especially those just starting out with electrical work, appreciate not having a lot of complicated settings to confuse them. It's just a little frustrating when you compare to something like the Klein CL800, which has a current...