La Sportiva Otaki are high-level climbing shoes that take their name from the oldest samurai sword, and like it, they are very precise even on the smallest supports.This is why the Otaki are the perfect shoe for sport climbing and especially for high-level bouldering. The closure, halfway between that of a ballerina and a velcro shoe, allows for unparalleled adjustment and leaves no empty spots on the surface of the foot, making the shoe very snug. The S-Heel heel and the P3 construction sole provide support along the entire length of the shoe and allow for precise heel hooking to overcome the toughest bouldering moves.
La Sportiva Otaki are high-level climbing shoes that take their name from the oldest samurai sword, and like it, they are very precise even on the smallest supports.This is why the Otaki are the perfect shoe for sport climbing and especially for high-level bouldering. The closure, halfway between that of a ballerina and a velcro shoe, allows for unparalleled adjustment and leaves no empty spots on the surface of the foot, making the shoe very snug. The S-Heel heel and the P3 construction sole provide support along the entire length of the shoe and allow for precise heel hooking to overcome the toughest bouldering moves.
La Sportiva Otaki are high-level climbing shoes that take their name from the oldest samurai sword, and like it, they are very precise even on the smallest supports.This is why the Otaki are the perfect shoe for sport climbing and especially for high-level bouldering. The closure, halfway between that of a ballerina and a velcro shoe, allows for unparalleled adjustment and leaves no empty spots on the surface of the foot, making the shoe very snug. The S-Heel heel and the P3 construction sole provide support along the entire length of the shoe and allow for precise heel hooking to overcome the toughest bouldering moves.
La Sportiva Otaki are high-level climbing shoes that take their name from the oldest samurai sword, and like it, they are very precise even on the smallest supports.This is why the Otaki are the perfect shoe for sport climbing and especially for high-level bouldering. The closure, halfway between that of a ballerina and a velcro shoe, allows for unparalleled adjustment and leaves no empty spots on the surface of the foot, making the shoe very snug. The S-Heel heel and the P3 construction sole provide support along the entire length of the shoe and allow for precise heel hooking to overcome the toughest bouldering moves.
Last updated at 03/24/2026 13:25:03
La Sportiva Otaki climbing shoes-33
Delivery by 1 Apr $64.36
originally posted on backcountry.com
I just received the shoes in the mail and was psyched to open it and try it out. But, upon opening, to my surprise, the shoes looked dirty. Upon closer inspection, there is glue residue on the strap, toe looks like it was poorly glued on or even previously used. There are ends of the stitching sticking out everywhere. I’m sure the material shouldn’t be too bad for climbing but man am I disappointed with the build quality for not so cheap pair of climbing shoes. Hopefully it lasts at least a year of indoor climbing.
originally posted on rockrun.fr
I'm an improver / intermediate level climber who has done most of their climbing indoors in climbing gyms and has dabbled with trad. Having previously been using a pair of Scarpa Vapour V's for their soft sole, generally symmetric profile, slightly downturned shape (all really great for indoor climbing) and high level of comfort, I wanted something that was going to not only help me progress on to harder indoor routes, but would also perform well on small / micro edges outdoors as I got into trad more. I was also looking for something a little bit stiffer to give me extra support when standing on small footholds/edges without losing too much sensitivity.I've worn the Otaki's every time I've climbed over the last 7 weeks (again mostly indoors) but also with 2 days ... MoreI'm an improver / intermediate level climber who has done most of their climbing indoors in climbing gyms and has dabbled with trad. Having previously been using a pair of Scarpa Vapour V's for their soft sole, generally symmetric profile, slightly downturned shape (all really great for indoor climbing) and high level of comfort, I wanted something that was going to not only help me progress on to harder indoor routes, but would also perform well on small / micro edges outdoors as I got into trad more. I was also looking for something a little bit stiffer to give me extra support when standing on small footholds/edges without losing too much sensitivity.I've worn the Otaki's every time I've climbed over the last 7 weeks (again mostly indoors) but also with 2 days of trad on slab and vertical routes and I've not been disappointed. The Otaki's are sensitive enough for me to feel the small holds/edges beneath my foot and stiff enough to provide the extra support that I wasn't getting from the Vapours. The extra stiffness in the sole means that my feet don't scream in agony when putting all the pressure and weight down through my toes on small holds like they did in the Vapours.The snuggly fitted heel and decent amount of heel rubber give huge amounts of grip when heel hooking and has really helped me make more use of this technique than I used to in my other shoes.It took about 3 weeks wearing the Otaki's 2 - 3 times a week for them to feel broken in, which involved taking them off every 20 - 30 mins or so to let my feet relax, but having got to that point, they have so much grip and provide so much support that 3 weeks of breaking them in was definitely worth it.They are slightly down turned but not so much that your foot protests if it is not used to this shape, and whilst they are asymmetrical, again it is not too much that your foot can't adjust if it is not used to the shape.My street shoe size is 42 - 43 (depending on where I buy shoes from) - after trying on the Otaki's in size 42 and 43, I went with the 42's as they provide a snug, close fit that is a comfortable level of tightness with no extra room (but still allow me to loosen them if my feet swell when they get hot).Would definitely recommend these shoes to anyone looking to make the step up from improver to intermediate level as they are confidence giving shoes because of the level of support and stickyness they provide.Whilst not inappropriate for beginners, they are on the more expensive side, so beginners may wish to go with a cheaper all round option untll they work out what climbing style (trad, sport, bouldering), rock types (grit, granite, limestone, sandstone etc) and hold types (small rounds, micro edges, slopers, smeary slabs etc) they will be climbing on more often than not.
originally posted on REI
Here's the thing- These shoes overall are not bad. But it really depends on what style of climbing you're doing. These were my second pair of shoes ever and for that, they did pretty good. I mainly bouldered in them and maybe did 8 sport climbing routes (all indoors) in them. I will say, they make a fantastic sport climbing shoe. However, for bouldering. I can't say the same. The toe rubber for toe hooking is an absolute joke but the heel is pretty good. The shoes starting falling apart much faster than I'd like to admit and because of that, the price is kinda ridiculous. At most these are a $180 pair of shoes. I think they were considered kinda "done" around 5-6 months of use. I have now climbed in them for almost 8 or 9 months and my toes have completely broken ... MoreHere's the thing- These shoes overall are not bad. But it really depends on what style of climbing you're doing. These were my second pair of shoes ever and for that, they did pretty good. I mainly bouldered in them and maybe did 8 sport climbing routes (all indoors) in them. I will say, they make a fantastic sport climbing shoe. However, for bouldering. I can't say the same. The toe rubber for toe hooking is an absolute joke but the heel is pretty good. The shoes starting falling apart much faster than I'd like to admit and because of that, the price is kinda ridiculous. At most these are a $180 pair of shoes. I think they were considered kinda "done" around 5-6 months of use. I have now climbed in them for almost 8 or 9 months and my toes have completely broken through the rubber. I would also not recommend bouldering in them if you climb higher than V7 because for the price. You can get a much better pair of shoes that'll last you longer and also probably save you $20.
| Closing System | Velcro |
| Climbing Shoe Use | Boulder, Crag |
| Climbing Shoe Sole Type | Half Sole |
| Climbing Shoe Technology | P3 |
| Shoe Downturn | Aggressive |
La Sportiva Otaki climbing shoes-33
Delivery by 1 Apr $64.36
I just received the shoes in the mail and was psyched to open it and try it out. But, upon opening, to my surprise, the shoes looked dirty. Upon closer inspection, there is glue residue on the strap, toe looks like it was poorly glued on or even previously used. There are ends of the stitching sticking out everywhere. I’m sure the material shouldn’t be too bad for climbing but man am I disappointed with the build quality for not so cheap pair of climbing shoes. Hopefully it lasts at least a year of indoor climbing.
I'm an improver / intermediate level climber who has done most of their climbing indoors in climbing gyms and has dabbled with trad. Having previously been using a pair of Scarpa Vapour V's for their soft sole, generally symmetric profile, slightly downturned shape (all really great for indoor climbing) and high level of comfort, I wanted something that was going to not only help me progress on to harder indoor routes, but would also perform well on small / micro edges outdoors as I got into trad more. I was also looking for something a little bit stiffer to give me extra support when standing on small footholds/edges without losing too much sensitivity.I've worn the Otaki's every time I've climbed over the last 7 weeks (again mostly indoors) but also with 2 days ... MoreI'm an improver / intermediate level climber who has done most of their climbing indoors in climbing gyms and has dabbled with trad. Having previously been using a pair of Scarpa Vapour V's for their soft sole, generally symmetric profile, slightly downturned shape (all really great for indoor climbing) and high level of comfort, I wanted something that was going to not only help me progress on to harder indoor routes, but would also perform well on small / micro edges outdoors as I got into trad more. I was also looking for something a little bit stiffer to give me extra support when standing on small footholds/edges without losing too much sensitivity.I've worn the Otaki's every time I've climbed over the last 7 weeks (again mostly indoors) but also with 2 days of trad on slab and vertical routes and I've not been disappointed. The Otaki's are sensitive enough for me to feel the small holds/edges beneath my foot and stiff enough to provide the extra support that I wasn't getting from the Vapours. The extra stiffness in the sole means that my feet don't scream in agony when putting all the pressure and weight down through my toes on small holds like they did in the Vapours.The snuggly fitted heel and decent amount of heel rubber give huge amounts of grip when heel hooking and has really helped me make more use of this technique than I used to in my other shoes.It took about 3 weeks wearing the Otaki's 2 - 3 times a week for them to feel broken in, which involved taking them off every 20 - 30 mins or so to let my feet relax, but having got to that point, they have so much grip and provide so much support that 3 weeks of breaking them in was definitely worth it.They are slightly down turned but not so much that your foot protests if it is not used to this shape, and whilst they are asymmetrical, again it is not too much that your foot can't adjust if it is not used to the shape.My street shoe size is 42 - 43 (depending on where I buy shoes from) - after trying on the Otaki's in size 42 and 43, I went with the 42's as they provide a snug, close fit that is a comfortable level of tightness with no extra room (but still allow me to loosen them if my feet swell when they get hot).Would definitely recommend these shoes to anyone looking to make the step up from improver to intermediate level as they are confidence giving shoes because of the level of support and stickyness they provide.Whilst not inappropriate for beginners, they are on the more expensive side, so beginners may wish to go with a cheaper all round option untll they work out what climbing style (trad, sport, bouldering), rock types (grit, granite, limestone, sandstone etc) and hold types (small rounds, micro edges, slopers, smeary slabs etc) they will be climbing on more often than not.
Here's the thing- These shoes overall are not bad. But it really depends on what style of climbing you're doing. These were my second pair of shoes ever and for that, they did pretty good. I mainly bouldered in them and maybe did 8 sport climbing routes (all indoors) in them. I will say, they make a fantastic sport climbing shoe. However, for bouldering. I can't say the same. The toe rubber for toe hooking is an absolute joke but the heel is pretty good. The shoes starting falling apart much faster than I'd like to admit and because of that, the price is kinda ridiculous. At most these are a $180 pair of shoes. I think they were considered kinda "done" around 5-6 months of use. I have now climbed in them for almost 8 or 9 months and my toes have completely broken ... MoreHere's the thing- These shoes overall are not bad. But it really depends on what style of climbing you're doing. These were my second pair of shoes ever and for that, they did pretty good. I mainly bouldered in them and maybe did 8 sport climbing routes (all indoors) in them. I will say, they make a fantastic sport climbing shoe. However, for bouldering. I can't say the same. The toe rubber for toe hooking is an absolute joke but the heel is pretty good. The shoes starting falling apart much faster than I'd like to admit and because of that, the price is kinda ridiculous. At most these are a $180 pair of shoes. I think they were considered kinda "done" around 5-6 months of use. I have now climbed in them for almost 8 or 9 months and my toes have completely broken through the rubber. I would also not recommend bouldering in them if you climb higher than V7 because for the price. You can get a much better pair of shoes that'll last you longer and also probably save you $20.
I'm a woman, and I bought the mens Otakis as my aggressive shoe and they are incredible. I can stand on feet I would never have the courage to stand on in my Finales. I've heard complaints that the mens is wider than the women's, but I have incredibly average feet and have had no issue with the width. However, the toe box has a fairly sharp line right where the rubber ends that digs into my big toe. I'm a bit of a no-pain-no-gain person, but it gets too painful to put weight on my toes if I have them on for more than 10 minutes. Since that's a pretty unfortunate design flaw for a pair of climbing shoes intended to put your whole body weight on your big toe, I'm giving them 4 stars instead of 5. With that being said, I swear these shoes let me stand on a prayer, so I ... MoreI'm a woman, and I bought the mens Otakis as my aggressive shoe and they are incredible. I can stand on feet I would never have the courage to stand on in my Finales. I've heard complaints that the mens is wider than the women's, but I have incredibly average feet and have had no issue with the width. However, the toe box has a fairly sharp line right where the rubber ends that digs into my big toe. I'm a bit of a no-pain-no-gain person, but it gets too painful to put weight on my toes if I have them on for more than 10 minutes. Since that's a pretty unfortunate design flaw for a pair of climbing shoes intended to put your whole body weight on your big toe, I'm giving them 4 stars instead of 5. With that being said, I swear these shoes let me stand on a prayer, so I love them regardless!
Excellent face climbing and edging shoe. I went a half size down from my regular in la sportivas to account for the stretch from the leather and they're perfect... for a wide forefoot with a moderate heel. Good blend of split sole in the back with a harder rubber and stiff, thick edges in the front. Very at home in the gym or outdoors on demanding sport routes and moderately overhung problems. Not super sticky or aggressive for "modern" boulders, but perfect for finding a good clipping stance.
I have been climbing for some time and I am very very hard on shoes. I gym climb 3-4 times a week and tend to press against walls when sport climbing to get rests in between holds so I wear the big toe a lot. I say this because I have had these shoes for over a year, and in that time I have actually had 4 pairs and resoled two of them already. So I have really put this product through the wringer. I go through shoes way faster than most and tend to resole early to not wear out the rand.Pros: if you are looking for an aggressive shoe with structure that is still comfortable, these should be a definite consideration. The semi split sole is great for some give in the shoe because is heel and toe box can flex independently. However, the thickness of the toe box rubber ... MoreI have been climbing for some time and I am very very hard on shoes. I gym climb 3-4 times a week and tend to press against walls when sport climbing to get rests in between holds so I wear the big toe a lot. I say this because I have had these shoes for over a year, and in that time I have actually had 4 pairs and resoled two of them already. So I have really put this product through the wringer. I go through shoes way faster than most and tend to resole early to not wear out the rand.Pros: if you are looking for an aggressive shoe with structure that is still comfortable, these should be a definite consideration. The semi split sole is great for some give in the shoe because is heel and toe box can flex independently. However, the thickness of the toe box rubber and the midsole provide you with a lot of support. The use of edge rubber is also a plus. All these things combined make it a good edging shoe because you have the structure beneath your foot to give you confidence.They are down turned but not very asymmetrical. This means that your foot is not jammed in a shoe that concentrates all your power aggressively towards your big toe. I also have sportiva solution shoes and if you compare the two lasts, they are totally different. The lack of asymmetry means that you are in a more relaxed position when on your toe. This is good for longer sessions on the wall, and definitely mean a more comfortable fit. You can definitely wear these for a long time. It also means that people with slightly wider toe box needs can wear them.Velcro is good. Traditionalists love laces, and they are great for the shoes that have them, but for ease of on off, the two straps are great and allow for a good deal of adjustment.They break in great. Stiff out of the box, but confirm well (but all good climbing shoes do this). The man made leather and full lining means these do not stretch that much, but like any shoe they do stretch a little. Snug initial fit is a good thing. Try them on and beat in mind that about a full to half a size down is likely required.Cons: be aware that the toe patch is basically non existent. These are more of a sport climbing shoe. If you are going to aggressively toe hook and boulders, may not be the best for long term use. The bits of rubber there are ok, and being fully lined they are comfortable to toe hook, but the shoe wasn’t made for that.All man made leather gets stinky after a while. It’s just a fact. Deal with it. Real leather tends to deal better with stink.Like all shoes, if you beat the heck out of them, they will soften up. I feel as if these become better for feel as they get softer. My resoled shoes are really soft by this point. Really nice for technical moves, but the edging performance has gone down. Again, this is a normal thing for downturned shoes. If you want an edging shoe that will always be stiff, then you want a flat last hard rubber shoe made for that. It isn’t that these puppies can’t edge, just that as they evolve, so does their edging performanceSizing:I wear street shoe size 42. I have bought these in 41.5 (ended up being a bit too big) two pairs of 41 (just right for all day use) and a pair in 40.5 (Best for hardest sends). If I had to pick 1 all around size for me, I would go with the 41 (again street shoe size 42).I have resoled the 41.5 and a pair of the 41. (Rock and resole out of Colorado is an awesome place for resoles). They resole well and are like an old friend, but use a reputable place as I have had cobblers ruin some shoes before.They are comfy, an amazing performer (a combo that isn’t easy to achieve) and they look good. If you are looking for an aggressive shoe that will help you progress, definitely a contender along with the Scarpa Instinct VS. you won’t regret spending the cash.
I was looking for new climbing shoes since the soles on my first pair started to separate from the upper. I additionally wanted shoes that accommodated a slightly wider than typical foot (for my foot length, I'm between a D and E for width). I got these in a size 40.5, and my street shoe size is 41The Otaki has been great in this respect! The forefoot is wide enough to be comfortable but snug, the downturn is aggressive enough to start getting a sense for what benefits a downturn can grant, but the shoe is comfortable enough to not have to take it off after every route. They've basically checked off everything I wanted in my second pair of shoes, with one caveat:My left foot's pinky toe has a sort-of-bunion that was pretty painful to squeeze into the shoe at ... MoreI was looking for new climbing shoes since the soles on my first pair started to separate from the upper. I additionally wanted shoes that accommodated a slightly wider than typical foot (for my foot length, I'm between a D and E for width). I got these in a size 40.5, and my street shoe size is 41The Otaki has been great in this respect! The forefoot is wide enough to be comfortable but snug, the downturn is aggressive enough to start getting a sense for what benefits a downturn can grant, but the shoe is comfortable enough to not have to take it off after every route. They've basically checked off everything I wanted in my second pair of shoes, with one caveat:My left foot's pinky toe has a sort-of-bunion that was pretty painful to squeeze into the shoe at first (beyond normal expectations for climbing shoe discomfort, I think). I believe the reason is that, while most of the upper is leather + velcro, the metal loops that the velcro loops through are attached into the shoe with a small rectangle of metal, which forms a small rigid patch that (for me) happened to line up with a bone. I ended up stretching that particular part of the shoe out overnight by shoving junk into the shoe, but I recommend trying these on before buying, since I believe there are other perfectly good shoes that would not have had this particular pain point.
I'm a 9.5 in regular shoes, a 9 in these feels too tight for a week then settles in to be perfect (I've climbed VS-E1 in them mostly). I love them. I've used them mostly for vertical/ just off vertical slabs. On my E4 project they've held edges of 4-5mm as well as truly desperate 75+° smears & I LOVE this rubber! I don't think the comps would be any better for this terrain & I don't know of any better shoes than la sportiva currently. I bought & tried a pair of 1 of the top model unparalleled shoes on my project & had to go back to the otakis, they were WAY better. Perhaps the higher end shoes are all for more steep/ overhanging terrain, I can't imagine finding anything better than these for what I do.
I was seeking a slightly stiffer, supportive shoe for longer routes w some steep bouldery sections. These shoes performed well all around, they edge and smear well on slab, and the slight downturn transitions to steeper sections w stability and confidence.These shoes definitely lack some of the feel, feedback, and precision of softer bouldering focused shoes but not so much as to detract from the shoes overall ability preform well on all terrain.Fitment is comparable to other La Sportiva w similar downturn. I have a wider forefoot which produced slight discomfort on my metatarsal head during break-in. They’re fairly comfy now but if you want more comfort for all-day or long climbing, I’d consider the lace-up alternative. These shoes are super easy to get in and ... MoreI was seeking a slightly stiffer, supportive shoe for longer routes w some steep bouldery sections. These shoes performed well all around, they edge and smear well on slab, and the slight downturn transitions to steeper sections w stability and confidence.These shoes definitely lack some of the feel, feedback, and precision of softer bouldering focused shoes but not so much as to detract from the shoes overall ability preform well on all terrain.Fitment is comparable to other La Sportiva w similar downturn. I have a wider forefoot which produced slight discomfort on my metatarsal head during break-in. They’re fairly comfy now but if you want more comfort for all-day or long climbing, I’d consider the lace-up alternative. These shoes are super easy to get in and out of which is great for any shoe.Heel is bomber for me, very little dead space and super stable with plenty of friction and comfort. Toe hooking is not so great for me. While friction is alright, I’d like more material for support and durability sake.Great overall shoe that does everything pretty well. Can definitely make the argument for owning only one shoe, especially for enthusiastic climbers on a budget delving into all aspects of the sport as once. Worth it!
I've worn the shoe through about a month of climbing now. I sized down from my street shoe size 43 to a 41.5 (slightly more conservative than la sportiva's recommendation of 2-3 sizes). After showering with the shoes to stretch them, the fit is what I would call "performance comfortable." I take them off between boulder problems and sport routes at the gym, but I don't have any pain (for small durations) after wearing them for a month. My feet are on the wide side, and I really like the fit of these compared with something like the Muira, which feel narrower. I ultimately chose these because I plan to use them on slabby Pennsylvania sport climbing as the weather turns again in the fall. These have been stiff enough to edge and downturned enough to stick to ... MoreI've worn the shoe through about a month of climbing now. I sized down from my street shoe size 43 to a 41.5 (slightly more conservative than la sportiva's recommendation of 2-3 sizes). After showering with the shoes to stretch them, the fit is what I would call "performance comfortable." I take them off between boulder problems and sport routes at the gym, but I don't have any pain (for small durations) after wearing them for a month. My feet are on the wide side, and I really like the fit of these compared with something like the Muira, which feel narrower. I ultimately chose these because I plan to use them on slabby Pennsylvania sport climbing as the weather turns again in the fall. These have been stiff enough to edge and downturned enough to stick to overhanging boulder problems. I really wanted a "do it all" shoe, and I think this fits the bill. Rubber is sticky.
| Closing System | Velcro |
| Climbing Shoe Use | Boulder, Crag |
| Climbing Shoe Sole Type | Half Sole |
| Climbing Shoe Technology | P3 |
| Shoe Downturn | Aggressive |
