Last updated at 01/09/2024 22:01:35
originally posted on REI
I've been using this shoe for the past few months now, and I have (almost) nothing but positive things to say about it. The extended tip of the shoe combined with it's aggressive style allow you to pivot easily on even the smallest of foot holds. Coming from a Scarpa Quantic, I was impressed with how well the shoe held on during heel hooks, (I wear socks when I climb due to overly sweaty feet, this was a huge issue for me with the Quantics) as well as the ample amount of rubber on the toe that enables you to have a great grip for toe hooks. While the shoe may be built for bouldering, I used it for everything and it performs just fine on rope climbs as well. The only downside to this shoe is the fact that your feet will hurt really badly the majority of the time you ...Ā MoreI've been using this shoe for the past few months now, and I have (almost) nothing but positive things to say about it. The extended tip of the shoe combined with it's aggressive style allow you to pivot easily on even the smallest of foot holds. Coming from a Scarpa Quantic, I was impressed with how well the shoe held on during heel hooks, (I wear socks when I climb due to overly sweaty feet, this was a huge issue for me with the Quantics) as well as the ample amount of rubber on the toe that enables you to have a great grip for toe hooks. While the shoe may be built for bouldering, I used it for everything and it performs just fine on rope climbs as well. The only downside to this shoe is the fact that your feet will hurt really badly the majority of the time you use these. If you have a decent pain tolerance and you take the time to remove them in between your climbs, this should not be too much of an issue, especially when you take into account the insane performance of these shoes. I read that Sportiva shoes were particularly large, so I decided to size down one full size (I got 43eu, or 10us coming from a regular size 11us for my regular shoes). This felt like it fit me perfectly, slightly snug with my toe touching the end of the shoe. After a few months of use, a small tear has begun on the black fabric that goes over the top of your foot. This is probably due to my own errors climbing clumsily, but if you're in the same boat as me it may be something to consider. The laces have also begun wearing down where they go through the metal rings to fold back over onto the velcro on the top of your foot, however they still seem to be holding strong. If you wear these a lot, you'll start to notice some things- I feel like they are making physical changes to my feet. I've started to get these two bumps on the outside part of my big toes. They look pretty gnarly and from what I've gathered from other users, they're probably going to get bigger and need to be filed down eventually, yuck. All that being said, I see this as a price to pay for the insane performance that comes with the Solutions. If you're not okay with potentially permanently changing your toe shape, these may not be the shoes for you. If you can look past this, these may be the best climbing shoes you will ever buy.
originally posted on backcountry.com
I've been using Solutions for years and absolutely love it for everything except multi-pitch. My only sticking point (pun only partly intended) was that the perfectly fitting heel was like an ice pick, which is great a lot of the time, but it makes it hard to use your heel on smaller or smooth features. The Solution Comps have a softer, stickier heel that I wish the Solutions had, and the top of the toe is also softer and more comfortable to toe hook than the Solutions. The toe itself is equivalent between the two as far as I can tell.A couple of little things to mention:Sizing - I went with a half size smaller than my Solutions (which are tight, but not painful). It hurt like hell the first time I put them on, but they broke in fast and that size-down was ...Ā MoreI've been using Solutions for years and absolutely love it for everything except multi-pitch. My only sticking point (pun only partly intended) was that the perfectly fitting heel was like an ice pick, which is great a lot of the time, but it makes it hard to use your heel on smaller or smooth features. The Solution Comps have a softer, stickier heel that I wish the Solutions had, and the top of the toe is also softer and more comfortable to toe hook than the Solutions. The toe itself is equivalent between the two as far as I can tell.A couple of little things to mention:Sizing - I went with a half size smaller than my Solutions (which are tight, but not painful). It hurt like hell the first time I put them on, but they broke in fast and that size-down was perfect. So if you're going from Solutions, I'd recommend sizing down a half size unless your Solutions so tight you can't wear them for a whole session.Heel fit - My heel fit the original Solutions perfectly. Even sized down, the comp heel doesn't fit quite the same or as well. Occasionally an air pocket creeps into it, which never happened with the originals. Maybe that's the tradeoff for the softer heel? In any case, it bothered me on the ground, but I never really noticed it on the wall. Even with the tiny bit of space in the heel, it was tight and soft enough that my heel didn't slip inside the shoe when heel hooking.Ultimately I think this is still worth trying out if you love Solutions but want a softer heel. Also if you have neither and want to try a new aggressive shoe, this is a hard shoe to beat.
originally posted on REI
I have had these climbing shoes for about 8 months and they have performed amazingly. The time to break in a pair that I had sized down about a size and a half was very minimal (~2 weeks of climbing). The shoes have a great toe box and I can stand on pretty minimal edges. Unfortunately the big problem comes with the Velcro straps used to fasten the shoes. I know a few other people have had similar issues and as such this seems to just be a fundamental design flaw. Otherwise I would give the shoe a glowing review. Overall I believe it can still be with the purchase as Iāve spent 8 months bouldering/ sport climbing 3-4 days a week on average without issue but be advised that at some point your Velcro fasteners will likely fray/ tear.
| Is discontinued by manufacturer | No |
I've been using this shoe for the past few months now, and I have (almost) nothing but positive things to say about it. The extended tip of the shoe combined with it's aggressive style allow you to pivot easily on even the smallest of foot holds. Coming from a Scarpa Quantic, I was impressed with how well the shoe held on during heel hooks, (I wear socks when I climb due to overly sweaty feet, this was a huge issue for me with the Quantics) as well as the ample amount of rubber on the toe that enables you to have a great grip for toe hooks. While the shoe may be built for bouldering, I used it for everything and it performs just fine on rope climbs as well. The only downside to this shoe is the fact that your feet will hurt really badly the majority of the time you ...Ā MoreI've been using this shoe for the past few months now, and I have (almost) nothing but positive things to say about it. The extended tip of the shoe combined with it's aggressive style allow you to pivot easily on even the smallest of foot holds. Coming from a Scarpa Quantic, I was impressed with how well the shoe held on during heel hooks, (I wear socks when I climb due to overly sweaty feet, this was a huge issue for me with the Quantics) as well as the ample amount of rubber on the toe that enables you to have a great grip for toe hooks. While the shoe may be built for bouldering, I used it for everything and it performs just fine on rope climbs as well. The only downside to this shoe is the fact that your feet will hurt really badly the majority of the time you use these. If you have a decent pain tolerance and you take the time to remove them in between your climbs, this should not be too much of an issue, especially when you take into account the insane performance of these shoes. I read that Sportiva shoes were particularly large, so I decided to size down one full size (I got 43eu, or 10us coming from a regular size 11us for my regular shoes). This felt like it fit me perfectly, slightly snug with my toe touching the end of the shoe. After a few months of use, a small tear has begun on the black fabric that goes over the top of your foot. This is probably due to my own errors climbing clumsily, but if you're in the same boat as me it may be something to consider. The laces have also begun wearing down where they go through the metal rings to fold back over onto the velcro on the top of your foot, however they still seem to be holding strong. If you wear these a lot, you'll start to notice some things- I feel like they are making physical changes to my feet. I've started to get these two bumps on the outside part of my big toes. They look pretty gnarly and from what I've gathered from other users, they're probably going to get bigger and need to be filed down eventually, yuck. All that being said, I see this as a price to pay for the insane performance that comes with the Solutions. If you're not okay with potentially permanently changing your toe shape, these may not be the shoes for you. If you can look past this, these may be the best climbing shoes you will ever buy.
I've been using Solutions for years and absolutely love it for everything except multi-pitch. My only sticking point (pun only partly intended) was that the perfectly fitting heel was like an ice pick, which is great a lot of the time, but it makes it hard to use your heel on smaller or smooth features. The Solution Comps have a softer, stickier heel that I wish the Solutions had, and the top of the toe is also softer and more comfortable to toe hook than the Solutions. The toe itself is equivalent between the two as far as I can tell.A couple of little things to mention:Sizing - I went with a half size smaller than my Solutions (which are tight, but not painful). It hurt like hell the first time I put them on, but they broke in fast and that size-down was ...Ā MoreI've been using Solutions for years and absolutely love it for everything except multi-pitch. My only sticking point (pun only partly intended) was that the perfectly fitting heel was like an ice pick, which is great a lot of the time, but it makes it hard to use your heel on smaller or smooth features. The Solution Comps have a softer, stickier heel that I wish the Solutions had, and the top of the toe is also softer and more comfortable to toe hook than the Solutions. The toe itself is equivalent between the two as far as I can tell.A couple of little things to mention:Sizing - I went with a half size smaller than my Solutions (which are tight, but not painful). It hurt like hell the first time I put them on, but they broke in fast and that size-down was perfect. So if you're going from Solutions, I'd recommend sizing down a half size unless your Solutions so tight you can't wear them for a whole session.Heel fit - My heel fit the original Solutions perfectly. Even sized down, the comp heel doesn't fit quite the same or as well. Occasionally an air pocket creeps into it, which never happened with the originals. Maybe that's the tradeoff for the softer heel? In any case, it bothered me on the ground, but I never really noticed it on the wall. Even with the tiny bit of space in the heel, it was tight and soft enough that my heel didn't slip inside the shoe when heel hooking.Ultimately I think this is still worth trying out if you love Solutions but want a softer heel. Also if you have neither and want to try a new aggressive shoe, this is a hard shoe to beat.
I have had these climbing shoes for about 8 months and they have performed amazingly. The time to break in a pair that I had sized down about a size and a half was very minimal (~2 weeks of climbing). The shoes have a great toe box and I can stand on pretty minimal edges. Unfortunately the big problem comes with the Velcro straps used to fasten the shoes. I know a few other people have had similar issues and as such this seems to just be a fundamental design flaw. Otherwise I would give the shoe a glowing review. Overall I believe it can still be with the purchase as Iāve spent 8 months bouldering/ sport climbing 3-4 days a week on average without issue but be advised that at some point your Velcro fasteners will likely fray/ tear.
There are plenty of high-performing climbing shoes on the market - the real performance comes from a proper fit.Iāve always had a hard time finding climbing shoes with a good fit for my feet, which are normal width in the forefoot, but are very narrow in the heel. Not many shoes fit this kind of foot and the result is usually a loose and baggy heel. The only shoes Iāve tried so far that fit my heel are the new Katanas (more of a sport climbing shoe) and the Solution Comps. The original Solutions had a molded heel cup that was cavernous and a fairly stiff forefoot; this was a no-go for me. The Solution Comps have the same high asymmetry and other features of the standard Solutions, but are more sensitive and have a tighter heel.Fit (EU 40.5): Excellent ...Ā MoreThere are plenty of high-performing climbing shoes on the market - the real performance comes from a proper fit.Iāve always had a hard time finding climbing shoes with a good fit for my feet, which are normal width in the forefoot, but are very narrow in the heel. Not many shoes fit this kind of foot and the result is usually a loose and baggy heel. The only shoes Iāve tried so far that fit my heel are the new Katanas (more of a sport climbing shoe) and the Solution Comps. The original Solutions had a molded heel cup that was cavernous and a fairly stiff forefoot; this was a no-go for me. The Solution Comps have the same high asymmetry and other features of the standard Solutions, but are more sensitive and have a tighter heel.Fit (EU 40.5): Excellent performance fit for someone who wears 9.5US (~42.5EU) in street shoes and weighs 165lb at 5ā9ā.Pros:+ Excellent balance between sensitivity and edging ability+ Snug heel cup for better heel fit and sensitivity (especially for narrow or LV heels)+ Good toe rubber coverage for toe-hooking.+ Great shape for steep overhung climbing.Cons:- Premium pricing- Velcro speed-lacing system does not get very snug, even if you crank on it.- While the coverage of the toe rubber is good, the rubber itself is quite thin - probably not an issue indoors, but I wonder how it would fare in repeated wear outdoors.
I have and really like the 2nd version of the Solution; but this model is substantially more comfortable, at seemingly no decline in performance. I am an average Gym/Outside climber, so take my opinion with a grain of salt; but after receiving these and trying them out immediately versus my current pair, I greatly prefer these. The new heel, which resembles the Miura's, Skwama's and Katana's is just nicer all around than the old, bulbous, rigid heel. Front end seems identical, and I can climb the same routes with the same precision and performance. So, If you liked Solution I and Solution II, I think you would really love this 3rd iteration!To William R. below:My street shoes size is 11.5-12 and no = I have not experienced any stretch. My forefoot is kinda wide, ...Ā MoreI have and really like the 2nd version of the Solution; but this model is substantially more comfortable, at seemingly no decline in performance. I am an average Gym/Outside climber, so take my opinion with a grain of salt; but after receiving these and trying them out immediately versus my current pair, I greatly prefer these. The new heel, which resembles the Miura's, Skwama's and Katana's is just nicer all around than the old, bulbous, rigid heel. Front end seems identical, and I can climb the same routes with the same precision and performance. So, If you liked Solution I and Solution II, I think you would really love this 3rd iteration!To William R. below:My street shoes size is 11.5-12 and no = I have not experienced any stretch. My forefoot is kinda wide, and my 3rd toe on both sides protrudes more than it should; so I DID use a shoe stretcher to slightly widen the forefoot because of my peculiarity, but nothing major. FWIW: My Solution IIs are size 46 and my Solution Comps are 45.5. I do not like super tight shoes. The 45.5 size is probably what YOU would prefer for performance, maybe even 45. The Comp's seem a tiny, TINY bit larger than the Solution IIs, maybe because of the softer, more forgiving heel.
Excellent balance of sensitivity and edging. That being said I am a heavier climber at 90kg. Would have given 5 stars but the straps are already showing significant wear after 4 months from gym 2X a week and outside on the weekends.Sizing wise I am a 44 in street shoe. I wear 41.5 in these. I also wear a 42.5 in Muira vs and have 42 in the old katana lace and 41.5 in the newest version. All performance fit. I wear a 44 in teneya masia and 43 in old pinks, fit for multi pitch.Mainly used on granite, limestone, and gneiss. No complaints on the hold. Smear surprisingly well for how well they edge. Heel is great for me as it fits well and being heavier provides a level of comfort on sharper holds.
These shoes are easily one of the most popular aggressive climbing shoes out there, and for good reason. The toe-box is amazing, and feels super reliable and precise. The rubber is sticky, but thick enough that it is still and supportive when you need it to be. However, the solution has some pretty big flaws. The most obvious one (and most complained about) is the closure system: the strap will rip for most people, especially if you have to crank it down for it to feel secure. I got lucky and only ripped the strap halfway before blowing the shoes out...The second flaw for me is the heel. It's way too stiff, so you can't feel anything you're doing and it constantly seems like you're about to slip off. It doesn't deform at all so sometimes you'll find yourself ...Ā MoreThese shoes are easily one of the most popular aggressive climbing shoes out there, and for good reason. The toe-box is amazing, and feels super reliable and precise. The rubber is sticky, but thick enough that it is still and supportive when you need it to be. However, the solution has some pretty big flaws. The most obvious one (and most complained about) is the closure system: the strap will rip for most people, especially if you have to crank it down for it to feel secure. I got lucky and only ripped the strap halfway before blowing the shoes out...The second flaw for me is the heel. It's way too stiff, so you can't feel anything you're doing and it constantly seems like you're about to slip off. It doesn't deform at all so sometimes you'll find yourself slipping on flatter holds when heel hooking. The last thing I'll say about this shoe is the build quality could be better. The toe rubber on mine started peeling right away. That being said, I fixed it with aquaseal +sr one time and it was good for the rest of the shoe's lifetime.
These shoes hurt. Went to these from Scarpa Veloce. Went with Solutions over the Instinct because of the more supportive heel cup. But that heel cup has an ill-placed stitch that grinds on the achilles tendon, even after a couple of break-in sessions. The toe box is still really cramped after sizing down a half size. That said, I guess itās the price for an aggressive shoe. These do make a difference in climbing. I can shove my toe into holds that I couldnāt before. I can heel hook a little more confidently knowing that my heel wonāt slip, as long as I can handle the pain. I do feel like my Veloces were more sticky and a little more flexible, but maybe a few more sessions will allow more break-in and prove me wrong. Overall happy with performance, but would prefer a ...Ā MoreThese shoes hurt. Went to these from Scarpa Veloce. Went with Solutions over the Instinct because of the more supportive heel cup. But that heel cup has an ill-placed stitch that grinds on the achilles tendon, even after a couple of break-in sessions. The toe box is still really cramped after sizing down a half size. That said, I guess itās the price for an aggressive shoe. These do make a difference in climbing. I can shove my toe into holds that I couldnāt before. I can heel hook a little more confidently knowing that my heel wonāt slip, as long as I can handle the pain. I do feel like my Veloces were more sticky and a little more flexible, but maybe a few more sessions will allow more break-in and prove me wrong. Overall happy with performance, but would prefer a more comfortable shoe. Which is why I still have my Finales
After carefully evaluating these shoes based solely on their performance, I would confidently rate them 3.5 out of 5 stars. The La Sportiva Solution is a shoe that evokes a love/hate relationship, and I want to share my genuine thoughts on it.Pros:These shoes excel in technical footwork, making them ideal for precision movements.They truly shine on overhang routes, thanks to their aggressive design.The sticky rubber on the soles provides excellent grip for indoor climbingThe heel construction is remarkable, offering outstanding support and traction for heel hooks.Summary:The La Sportiva Solution has rightfully gained its popularity, and I fully understand the hype surrounding it. The 4mm XS Grip 2 rubber enhances flexibility and movement compared to the XS ...Ā MoreAfter carefully evaluating these shoes based solely on their performance, I would confidently rate them 3.5 out of 5 stars. The La Sportiva Solution is a shoe that evokes a love/hate relationship, and I want to share my genuine thoughts on it.Pros:These shoes excel in technical footwork, making them ideal for precision movements.They truly shine on overhang routes, thanks to their aggressive design.The sticky rubber on the soles provides excellent grip for indoor climbingThe heel construction is remarkable, offering outstanding support and traction for heel hooks.Summary:The La Sportiva Solution has rightfully gained its popularity, and I fully understand the hype surrounding it. The 4mm XS Grip 2 rubber enhances flexibility and movement compared to the XS Edge variant. The rounded heel design offers exceptional stability and confidence during heel hooks, securing my placements effectively. Additionally, the rubber patch on the toe box not only grants excellent toe hook and bat hang capabilities but also provides protection while climbing on rocky surfaces.I appreciate the generous material in the upper sock-like closure system, which ensures a snug and comfortable fit, setting it apart from other models like the La Sportiva Theory and skwama.Cons:The single velcro closure system might not offer the level of security some climbers desire.The midsole shape may not be as comfortable for those with wider feet.It takes time to adapt to the rounded heel construction, especially for climbers accustomed to traditional heel designs.Some users find the pointy toe uncomfortable.The unique rounded heel of the La Sportiva Solution may require an adjustment period; this aspect has received mixed feedback among climbers. After using these shoes for a few months, transitioning back to a traditional heel design can be challenging. I must acknowledge La Sportiva's innovative approach. However, the single velcro closure system could be improved, as it tends to require frequent adjustments to achieve a proper fit. While they may not be my first choice for modern bouldering or competitive climbing, I genuinely admire the brand's pursuit of innovation.Overall, if I were to have just one pair of climbing shoes, the La Sportiva Solution might not be my ultimate pick, but they undeniably offer unique features and performance that many climbers appreciate.FitMy street shoe size is 8.5us (42EU) . I have low flat arches, skinny heels and Roman shaped feet. I wear a size 7us (39.5) solution. I could go down half size more but I found that to provide little to no benefits.Size comparison of similar shoes I wearLa Sportiva Theory 39La Sportiva Solution 39.5Scarpa Vapor 39.5
I recommend the comp solutions to everyone within earshot. I got my first pair in June of 2020 and it took me until May of 2022 to finally wear a hole in them. Long lasting and reliable with good footwork! They are a dream for a slab specialist like me, or overhang junkie āsoft enough to transmit the feel every micro edge, but supportive enough to let you stand hard into them too. The sharp beak of the toe and knife edges allow you to kiss the wall in style. The large toe patch is great for smearing the top of your foot against the wall for balance in a tricky slab problem, or keeping you snugly in place on an overhang. I really appreciate the lower profile heel cup āI find the ones on the original solutions to be too bulbous and deep. The rubber is delightfully ...Ā MoreI recommend the comp solutions to everyone within earshot. I got my first pair in June of 2020 and it took me until May of 2022 to finally wear a hole in them. Long lasting and reliable with good footwork! They are a dream for a slab specialist like me, or overhang junkie āsoft enough to transmit the feel every micro edge, but supportive enough to let you stand hard into them too. The sharp beak of the toe and knife edges allow you to kiss the wall in style. The large toe patch is great for smearing the top of your foot against the wall for balance in a tricky slab problem, or keeping you snugly in place on an overhang. I really appreciate the lower profile heel cup āI find the ones on the original solutions to be too bulbous and deep. The rubber is delightfully sticky on the comp solutions, and if weāre going to be superficial about it: the red and blue is far superior to the white and orange of the originals. All in all I canāt say enough good things about the comp solutions. La Sportiva, you better keep making these!
| Is discontinued by manufacturer | No |
Solution Comp is the climbing shoe designed for maximum performance on climbing competitions. Originating from the famous Solution climbing shoe, it boasts greater coverage at the front thanks to the rubber toe cap designed for toe hooks on overhangs and it has a more tapered heel to favour heel hooks on micro-holds. Perfect distribution of tension is guaranteed thanks to the P3 System technology which allows to maintain the shape over time. Solution Comp is a soft, precise, very elastic and reactive shoe: developed thinking of the movements of climbers on the volumes that today characterize indoor structures. The lacing is precise and quick thanks to the Fast-Lacing system. It has a lock é„ę¾arness construction for a perfect binding of the foot. The XS-Grip2 sole provides for maximum grip for a precise and safe climb. Solution Comp: the solution is in the name.
Solution Comp is the climbing shoe designed for maximum performance on climbing competitions. Originating from the famous Solution climbing shoe, it boasts greater coverage at the front thanks to the rubber toe cap designed for toe hooks on overhangs and it has a more tapered heel to favour heel hooks on micro-holds. Perfect distribution of tension is guaranteed thanks to the P3 System technology which allows to maintain the shape over time. Solution Comp is a soft, precise, very elastic and reactive shoe: developed thinking of the movements of climbers on the volumes that today characterize indoor structures. The lacing is precise and quick thanks to the Fast-Lacing system. It has a lock é„ę¾arness construction for a perfect binding of the foot. The XS-Grip2 sole provides for maximum grip for a precise and safe climb. Solution Comp: the solution is in the name.
Solution Comp is the climbing shoe designed for maximum performance on climbing competitions. Originating from the famous Solution climbing shoe, it boasts greater coverage at the front thanks to the rubber toe cap designed for toe hooks on overhangs and it has a more tapered heel to favour heel hooks on micro-holds. Perfect distribution of tension is guaranteed thanks to the P3 System technology which allows to maintain the shape over time. Solution Comp is a soft, precise, very elastic and reactive shoe: developed thinking of the movements of climbers on the volumes that today characterize indoor structures. The lacing is precise and quick thanks to the Fast-Lacing system. It has a lock é„ę¾arness construction for a perfect binding of the foot. The XS-Grip2 sole provides for maximum grip for a precise and safe climb. Solution Comp: the solution is in the name.
Solution Comp is the climbing shoe designed for maximum performance on climbing competitions. Originating from the famous Solution climbing shoe, it boasts greater coverage at the front thanks to the rubber toe cap designed for toe hooks on overhangs and it has a more tapered heel to favour heel hooks on micro-holds. Perfect distribution of tension is guaranteed thanks to the P3 System technology which allows to maintain the shape over time. Solution Comp is a soft, precise, very elastic and reactive shoe: developed thinking of the movements of climbers on the volumes that today characterize indoor structures. The lacing is precise and quick thanks to the Fast-Lacing system. It has a lock é„ę¾arness construction for a perfect binding of the foot. The XS-Grip2 sole provides for maximum grip for a precise and safe climb. Solution Comp: the solution is in the name.
