Last updated at 07/24/2024 16:37:55
originally posted on influenster.com
I’m writing for these boots below (can’t find it in Influenster): Scarpa Kailash Plus Gore-Tex Backpacking Boots I bought these boots a couple of years ago for my long day hike and multi day backpacking. These boots are very versatile and comfortable. They withstand heat, snow, mud, stepping over stones in creeks, they’re also waterproof, has great ankle support, and has excellent grip. I normally always have blisters, rubbing spots and hurting feet only after hiking through one mountain, but these boots are very well padded so I feel more stable and my feet felt light weight. They’re really comfy and offers the support and functionality for long hikes, but they required very little break in time. However, these boots fits big though, so you might need to go ... MoreI’m writing for these boots below (can’t find it in Influenster): Scarpa Kailash Plus Gore-Tex Backpacking Boots I bought these boots a couple of years ago for my long day hike and multi day backpacking. These boots are very versatile and comfortable. They withstand heat, snow, mud, stepping over stones in creeks, they’re also waterproof, has great ankle support, and has excellent grip. I normally always have blisters, rubbing spots and hurting feet only after hiking through one mountain, but these boots are very well padded so I feel more stable and my feet felt light weight. They’re really comfy and offers the support and functionality for long hikes, but they required very little break in time. However, these boots fits big though, so you might need to go down a size. #Scarpa #Hiking #Backpacking #Trekking #Nature #Mountains #influenster #voxbox #Sports #Sporty #Energy #Exercise
originally posted on backcountry.com
When shopping for my next pair of aggressive bouldering shoes, I found that my heel would slip slightly out of the shoe when aggressively pointing my toes. the instinct is the first and only shoe I found that didnt do this.I also have extremely wide feet, and these do not bind my toes together like I found that many other shoes did. however, they are slightly shallow in height, so every once in a while I have to pop my heel out because I felt pressure from the toe rubber pushing down right on top of the knuckle of my big toe.they are decently stiff, which is good for me because I weigh ~190 pounds. BUT, dont let the sx edge rubber scare you; I have not noticed that they are slippery when smearing on volumes. They still grip quite well for heavier climbers, while ... MoreWhen shopping for my next pair of aggressive bouldering shoes, I found that my heel would slip slightly out of the shoe when aggressively pointing my toes. the instinct is the first and only shoe I found that didnt do this.I also have extremely wide feet, and these do not bind my toes together like I found that many other shoes did. however, they are slightly shallow in height, so every once in a while I have to pop my heel out because I felt pressure from the toe rubber pushing down right on top of the knuckle of my big toe.they are decently stiff, which is good for me because I weigh ~190 pounds. BUT, dont let the sx edge rubber scare you; I have not noticed that they are slippery when smearing on volumes. They still grip quite well for heavier climbers, while still being sensitive enough for overhangs and roof problems. the toe is very pointed and quite precise, which is good for improving your footwork.I've come to realize I prefer one big velcro strap over more intricate lacing systems, like the la sportiva solution lace or the evolv phantom lacing system. I feel like a big strong velcro strap locks my heel down into the shoe better than thinner laces. That's just my opinion though; I know that others disagree.Now for sizing: take this with a grain of salt, since I have quite wide feet and I have never been able to downsize aggressively like other people on forums say they do. My street shoe is US 11 (sometimes 11.5). I got the instinct in EU 43.5, which equals US 10 1/3. I could probably size down to a 10 for ULTIMATE tightness, but im sorta a baby and dont like cramming my feet into super tight shoes. With the 43.5, my toes are slightly curled, toes touching the front, but do not feel like theyre suffocating. Good mix of performance and comfort, and I can wear them for several attempts before popping them off.For other reference, I tried the Evolv Phantom in size US 11.5, which was my comfort fit where I could where them for longer periods of time without having to take them off, and in size US 11, where I pretty much had to take them off after every boulder problem I tried, because they were too tight.Sizing was a huge problem when I was shopping for new shoes, so hopefully this helps anyone that is interested in the instincts!
originally posted on moosejaw.com
This is my favorite all around indoor shoe, though I mostly boulder. It has enough downturn for overhangs, but still smears very well and sticks to slabby volumes. Solid heal and toe hooks.I think the stickiness of the XS Grip 2 rubber is great indoors. My gym rarely has small, sharp edges; when they do show up, "smedging" works well. The granite I climb on outside does have a lot of small, sharp edges. I find these shoes deform too much and get torn up quickly. I definitely prefer a shoe with XS Edge rubber outside. (Note, I'm 170-180lbs)My street shoe size is Men's 9.5 and I have this shoe in both 41.5 and 42. The smaller shoe takes some effort to put on, but then fits very well heal and toe. The larger shoe fits great in the toe, but the heal is a bit baggy. ... MoreThis is my favorite all around indoor shoe, though I mostly boulder. It has enough downturn for overhangs, but still smears very well and sticks to slabby volumes. Solid heal and toe hooks.I think the stickiness of the XS Grip 2 rubber is great indoors. My gym rarely has small, sharp edges; when they do show up, "smedging" works well. The granite I climb on outside does have a lot of small, sharp edges. I find these shoes deform too much and get torn up quickly. I definitely prefer a shoe with XS Edge rubber outside. (Note, I'm 170-180lbs)My street shoe size is Men's 9.5 and I have this shoe in both 41.5 and 42. The smaller shoe takes some effort to put on, but then fits very well heal and toe. The larger shoe fits great in the toe, but the heal is a bit baggy. They are much easier to put on and I can wear them for longer without discomfort. I notice minimal performance decrease versus the smaller size. Neither size stretched significantly after break-in.My only complaint is that the inner liner is orange and stains the bottom of my feet. When I take my shoes off, I look like I have a terrible foot fungus. I put up with this because the shoes are great to climb in.
| Intended Use | Gym Climbing & Sport Climbing |
| Upper | Microsuede |
| Outsole | Vibram XS Grip2 3.5mm |
| SHIPS TO | Australia |
I’m writing for these boots below (can’t find it in Influenster): Scarpa Kailash Plus Gore-Tex Backpacking Boots I bought these boots a couple of years ago for my long day hike and multi day backpacking. These boots are very versatile and comfortable. They withstand heat, snow, mud, stepping over stones in creeks, they’re also waterproof, has great ankle support, and has excellent grip. I normally always have blisters, rubbing spots and hurting feet only after hiking through one mountain, but these boots are very well padded so I feel more stable and my feet felt light weight. They’re really comfy and offers the support and functionality for long hikes, but they required very little break in time. However, these boots fits big though, so you might need to go ... MoreI’m writing for these boots below (can’t find it in Influenster): Scarpa Kailash Plus Gore-Tex Backpacking Boots I bought these boots a couple of years ago for my long day hike and multi day backpacking. These boots are very versatile and comfortable. They withstand heat, snow, mud, stepping over stones in creeks, they’re also waterproof, has great ankle support, and has excellent grip. I normally always have blisters, rubbing spots and hurting feet only after hiking through one mountain, but these boots are very well padded so I feel more stable and my feet felt light weight. They’re really comfy and offers the support and functionality for long hikes, but they required very little break in time. However, these boots fits big though, so you might need to go down a size. #Scarpa #Hiking #Backpacking #Trekking #Nature #Mountains #influenster #voxbox #Sports #Sporty #Energy #Exercise
When shopping for my next pair of aggressive bouldering shoes, I found that my heel would slip slightly out of the shoe when aggressively pointing my toes. the instinct is the first and only shoe I found that didnt do this.I also have extremely wide feet, and these do not bind my toes together like I found that many other shoes did. however, they are slightly shallow in height, so every once in a while I have to pop my heel out because I felt pressure from the toe rubber pushing down right on top of the knuckle of my big toe.they are decently stiff, which is good for me because I weigh ~190 pounds. BUT, dont let the sx edge rubber scare you; I have not noticed that they are slippery when smearing on volumes. They still grip quite well for heavier climbers, while ... MoreWhen shopping for my next pair of aggressive bouldering shoes, I found that my heel would slip slightly out of the shoe when aggressively pointing my toes. the instinct is the first and only shoe I found that didnt do this.I also have extremely wide feet, and these do not bind my toes together like I found that many other shoes did. however, they are slightly shallow in height, so every once in a while I have to pop my heel out because I felt pressure from the toe rubber pushing down right on top of the knuckle of my big toe.they are decently stiff, which is good for me because I weigh ~190 pounds. BUT, dont let the sx edge rubber scare you; I have not noticed that they are slippery when smearing on volumes. They still grip quite well for heavier climbers, while still being sensitive enough for overhangs and roof problems. the toe is very pointed and quite precise, which is good for improving your footwork.I've come to realize I prefer one big velcro strap over more intricate lacing systems, like the la sportiva solution lace or the evolv phantom lacing system. I feel like a big strong velcro strap locks my heel down into the shoe better than thinner laces. That's just my opinion though; I know that others disagree.Now for sizing: take this with a grain of salt, since I have quite wide feet and I have never been able to downsize aggressively like other people on forums say they do. My street shoe is US 11 (sometimes 11.5). I got the instinct in EU 43.5, which equals US 10 1/3. I could probably size down to a 10 for ULTIMATE tightness, but im sorta a baby and dont like cramming my feet into super tight shoes. With the 43.5, my toes are slightly curled, toes touching the front, but do not feel like theyre suffocating. Good mix of performance and comfort, and I can wear them for several attempts before popping them off.For other reference, I tried the Evolv Phantom in size US 11.5, which was my comfort fit where I could where them for longer periods of time without having to take them off, and in size US 11, where I pretty much had to take them off after every boulder problem I tried, because they were too tight.Sizing was a huge problem when I was shopping for new shoes, so hopefully this helps anyone that is interested in the instincts!
This is my favorite all around indoor shoe, though I mostly boulder. It has enough downturn for overhangs, but still smears very well and sticks to slabby volumes. Solid heal and toe hooks.I think the stickiness of the XS Grip 2 rubber is great indoors. My gym rarely has small, sharp edges; when they do show up, "smedging" works well. The granite I climb on outside does have a lot of small, sharp edges. I find these shoes deform too much and get torn up quickly. I definitely prefer a shoe with XS Edge rubber outside. (Note, I'm 170-180lbs)My street shoe size is Men's 9.5 and I have this shoe in both 41.5 and 42. The smaller shoe takes some effort to put on, but then fits very well heal and toe. The larger shoe fits great in the toe, but the heal is a bit baggy. ... MoreThis is my favorite all around indoor shoe, though I mostly boulder. It has enough downturn for overhangs, but still smears very well and sticks to slabby volumes. Solid heal and toe hooks.I think the stickiness of the XS Grip 2 rubber is great indoors. My gym rarely has small, sharp edges; when they do show up, "smedging" works well. The granite I climb on outside does have a lot of small, sharp edges. I find these shoes deform too much and get torn up quickly. I definitely prefer a shoe with XS Edge rubber outside. (Note, I'm 170-180lbs)My street shoe size is Men's 9.5 and I have this shoe in both 41.5 and 42. The smaller shoe takes some effort to put on, but then fits very well heal and toe. The larger shoe fits great in the toe, but the heal is a bit baggy. They are much easier to put on and I can wear them for longer without discomfort. I notice minimal performance decrease versus the smaller size. Neither size stretched significantly after break-in.My only complaint is that the inner liner is orange and stains the bottom of my feet. When I take my shoes off, I look like I have a terrible foot fungus. I put up with this because the shoes are great to climb in.
I got the instincts recently in both the men’s and women’s versions (I wanted the men’s for outdoors because they have the harder XS Edge rubber and the women’s for indoor because of the softer XS Grip 2 rubber).I wear a size 8 (41) street shoe and got the men’s in 41 and the women’s in 41.5 since they’re lower volume (and in case anyone is interested in sizing between men’s and women’s, that half size difference seems to make them fit very similarly). The fit is pretty good, though definitely snug, and there is some pain through the break in period.So far, they seem like a good shoe, but the break in period is long. After probably 5-7 indoor climbing days, I still get pain on my big toes and have to tape them to be able to wear the shoes with reasonable comfort. ... MoreI got the instincts recently in both the men’s and women’s versions (I wanted the men’s for outdoors because they have the harder XS Edge rubber and the women’s for indoor because of the softer XS Grip 2 rubber).I wear a size 8 (41) street shoe and got the men’s in 41 and the women’s in 41.5 since they’re lower volume (and in case anyone is interested in sizing between men’s and women’s, that half size difference seems to make them fit very similarly). The fit is pretty good, though definitely snug, and there is some pain through the break in period.So far, they seem like a good shoe, but the break in period is long. After probably 5-7 indoor climbing days, I still get pain on my big toes and have to tape them to be able to wear the shoes with reasonable comfort. From the reviews I’ve read online, apparently it will get better, but some people said it takes as many as 20 wears to get a true break in.Other than that, I find I get pretty good performance from the shoe. Good edging and pretty good grip (probably slightly better with the women’s version), thought my feet feel a little clumsy as I wait for the shoes to break in more. Smearing isn’t great, but I suppose that’s expected in a shoe that is a bit more aggressive.Overall, I’m pretty happy with the shoe, and hoping they break in a bit better.
I upgraded to these from wearing la sportiva because I wanted something with better toeing and heel hooking as my climbing has become more intermediate. I've worn them about 5-6 times bouldering indoor and they are honestly more comfortable compared to what reviews had said to break in. These are the mens versions, but I'm a girl and just chose these over the girls version for convenience and they seem fine. I have not climbed in these outdoors so I can't speak on that. Overall pretty comfortable shoe that you will notice makes a difference in sending those more difficult problems you can't in more beginner shoes. A con I noticed is that my big toe seems to stab/bulge the top of the shoe, which hearing from someone else said the same. I sized down a half size.
Been using the shoe for last month and it delivers on heel and toe hooks on in-door bouldering problems. The shoe's downturn so far holds for ~150 lb person despite the grip rubber and inspires confidence on overlangs and slabs alike. Break-in period is a couple sessions if it's your first downturn shoes; toebox is wide and tall but for my feet, I wished it was a tad taller. Heel is slightly roomy on the left foot (normal shoe size is 10 USA, VSR size 43.5) but good fit on right foot (slightly larger). Sizing down to 43 or 42.5 had painful hotspots on the big toe knuckle. Toes curls just enough with a snug fit to keep the shoe rigid under tension for foot chips.
These shoes are so good, I don't even mind that there's no room for my big toe. I typically go for 43.5 in climbing shoes, but since the reviews said they run large I went with a 43. That was probably a mistake, but they are slowly but surely stretching to my feet. It's really only in my left big toe that its a problem. Perhaps its just my cartoonishly large digits.the best feature is the large amounts of top rubber on the top of the toe. you'll break some beta with these. the kind of weird smearing you can do with softer shoes doesn't work so well, but they still do just fine in gyms on volumes etc. you just have to be more technique conscious.
A lovely slipper that fits and sticks. It has quite a wide forefoot but a narrower heel and fits my foot like a glove. Having previously worn Unparallel Flagships and Mad Rock Drone HV's, the fit on the Instinct S is by far the better of the three. Being a slipper, the shoes are tight. I'd seen a recommendation to downsize by half to one full UK street size, and having tried both smaller sizes, I eventually opted to just wear my normal street size (still tight, but manageable). The lack of closing mechanics means you can slip the heel on and off between climbs without adjusting the tension (great to give your feet a breather between climbs). A fantastic-looking shoe that you'd forget was a slipper.
Coming from La Sportiva Tarantulace, I wanted a more aggressive shoe so that I could be more comfortable on small chips and slabs as I further my climbing ability. I quickly narrowed the list to:1. Evolv Shaman2. La Sportiva Miura VS3. Scarpa Instinct VSAnd honestly I would have been happy with any of these shoe options. All are very comparable when it comes to comfort, fit, and they all feature specialized designs to help with heel and toe hooks as well as super grippy rubber.What sold me on the Scarpa Instincts was the fit on my foot. After spending a day trying out each shoe at my local climbing gym (Stronghold, LA), I couldn't believe how comfortable the Scarpa's were considering how aggressive they are.My advice is go to a gym and try out the shoes on ... MoreComing from La Sportiva Tarantulace, I wanted a more aggressive shoe so that I could be more comfortable on small chips and slabs as I further my climbing ability. I quickly narrowed the list to:1. Evolv Shaman2. La Sportiva Miura VS3. Scarpa Instinct VSAnd honestly I would have been happy with any of these shoe options. All are very comparable when it comes to comfort, fit, and they all feature specialized designs to help with heel and toe hooks as well as super grippy rubber.What sold me on the Scarpa Instincts was the fit on my foot. After spending a day trying out each shoe at my local climbing gym (Stronghold, LA), I couldn't believe how comfortable the Scarpa's were considering how aggressive they are.My advice is go to a gym and try out the shoes on a route or a few. This will give you a better picture on what you can expect from wall sensitivity, grip level, and comfort.
I bought these to see how they fared outdoors. But my god are they good on volumes. I recently did a comp where there was multiple instances I thought I was about to slip off a volume and I just stuck! It felt like cheating.Outdoors, they take some getting used to in terms of foot strength and protection. With the minimal amount of rubber, or anything, your foot feels everything. Which is both great for sensitivity with heels, toe hooks and smearing, but can be quite painful if you bang your foot around with poor technique to fight up boulders.10/10 so far. Does exactly what it says on the tin. Supple, sensitive, downturned. Excellent shoe to have in the quiver.
| Intended Use | Gym Climbing & Sport Climbing |
| Upper | Microsuede |
| Outsole | Vibram XS Grip2 3.5mm |
| SHIPS TO | Australia |
Scarpas newest Instinct VSR a softer version of the Instinct VS with change in rubber to offer extra sensitivity on bold moves. Retaining the same reactive last and powerful rands of the infamous Instinct VS, the big change in the Instinct VSR the use of a softer rubber. Instead of a 3mm Vibram XS Edge, a more sensitive Vibram Grip 2 compound used which should have a particular appeal to climbers who are after the secure feeling of their feet on the tiniest of holds. The Instinct VSR will suit the advanced climber for technical sport climbing routes and bold bouldering problems. Its aggressive down-turned toe allows for fast and extremely precise foot placements. Much like the rest of the Instinct range, the VSR constructed with a bi-tension active rand starting under the toe area which connected to the heel rand, this serves to pull power from the toes instead of cramming toes forward to activate power allowing for more comfort and active feedback. The slipper design with one floating velcro attachment makes taking the shoe on an off a breeze with scope for customised adjustability to keep your feet securely wrapped up.Overall, the softer mid-sole should in theory open up the Instinct VSR to a more all-around appeal rather than being more geared towards edging like the VS.
Scarpas newest Instinct VSR a softer version of the Instinct VS with change in rubber to offer extra sensitivity on bold moves. Retaining the same reactive last and powerful rands of the infamous Instinct VS, the big change in the Instinct VSR the use of a softer rubber. Instead of a 3mm Vibram XS Edge, a more sensitive Vibram Grip 2 compound used which should have a particular appeal to climbers who are after the secure feeling of their feet on the tiniest of holds. The Instinct VSR will suit the advanced climber for technical sport climbing routes and bold bouldering problems. Its aggressive down-turned toe allows for fast and extremely precise foot placements. Much like the rest of the Instinct range, the VSR constructed with a bi-tension active rand starting under the toe area which connected to the heel rand, this serves to pull power from the toes instead of cramming toes forward to activate power allowing for more comfort and active feedback. The slipper design with one floating velcro attachment makes taking the shoe on an off a breeze with scope for customised adjustability to keep your feet securely wrapped up.Overall, the softer mid-sole should in theory open up the Instinct VSR to a more all-around appeal rather than being more geared towards edging like the VS.
Scarpas newest Instinct VSR a softer version of the Instinct VS with change in rubber to offer extra sensitivity on bold moves. Retaining the same reactive last and powerful rands of the infamous Instinct VS, the big change in the Instinct VSR the use of a softer rubber. Instead of a 3mm Vibram XS Edge, a more sensitive Vibram Grip 2 compound used which should have a particular appeal to climbers who are after the secure feeling of their feet on the tiniest of holds. The Instinct VSR will suit the advanced climber for technical sport climbing routes and bold bouldering problems. Its aggressive down-turned toe allows for fast and extremely precise foot placements. Much like the rest of the Instinct range, the VSR constructed with a bi-tension active rand starting under the toe area which connected to the heel rand, this serves to pull power from the toes instead of cramming toes forward to activate power allowing for more comfort and active feedback. The slipper design with one floating velcro attachment makes taking the shoe on an off a breeze with scope for customised adjustability to keep your feet securely wrapped up.Overall, the softer mid-sole should in theory open up the Instinct VSR to a more all-around appeal rather than being more geared towards edging like the VS.
Scarpas newest Instinct VSR a softer version of the Instinct VS with change in rubber to offer extra sensitivity on bold moves. Retaining the same reactive last and powerful rands of the infamous Instinct VS, the big change in the Instinct VSR the use of a softer rubber. Instead of a 3mm Vibram XS Edge, a more sensitive Vibram Grip 2 compound used which should have a particular appeal to climbers who are after the secure feeling of their feet on the tiniest of holds. The Instinct VSR will suit the advanced climber for technical sport climbing routes and bold bouldering problems. Its aggressive down-turned toe allows for fast and extremely precise foot placements. Much like the rest of the Instinct range, the VSR constructed with a bi-tension active rand starting under the toe area which connected to the heel rand, this serves to pull power from the toes instead of cramming toes forward to activate power allowing for more comfort and active feedback. The slipper design with one floating velcro attachment makes taking the shoe on an off a breeze with scope for customised adjustability to keep your feet securely wrapped up.Overall, the softer mid-sole should in theory open up the Instinct VSR to a more all-around appeal rather than being more geared towards edging like the VS.
