Tenaya Oasi Climbing shoes (6, black/grey) - Proving that comfort and high performance aren't mutually exclusive terms - the Oasi from Tenaya! The strongly pre-stressed shoe puts lots of pressure on the toes; as such, accurate footing on small structures such as an overhang or the roof of a bouldering cave no longer poses a problem. At the same time the fit ensures that the shoe is very comfortable to wear. With the elaborately designed, innovative closure system, the shoe fits exactly to the foot, almost like a second skin. The high quality Vibram XS Grip offers plenty of edge stability and a sensitivity for the tread underfoot, as well as excellent friction features. This creates confidence in the shoe! Great balance and dynamic flexibility are guaranteed on all route types, thanks to the MRRB (Maximum Range in Response and Balance) system. The SXRDynamics system ensures both comfort and excellent performance, by utilizing the foot's natural properties. Synthetic leather allows the Oasi to maintain its great fit over time, without wearing out. A soft cotton footbed absorbs sweat and contributes to a high level of comfort. Fans of upside-down bouldering, or those who feel most at home within the upper difficulty levels of sport climbing: the Oasi from Tenaya is definitely the right shoe for you!
Tenaya Oasi Climbing shoes (6, black/grey) - Proving that comfort and high performance aren't mutually exclusive terms - the Oasi from Tenaya! The strongly pre-stressed shoe puts lots of pressure on the toes; as such, accurate footing on small structures such as an overhang or the roof of a bouldering cave no longer poses a problem. At the same time the fit ensures that the shoe is very comfortable to wear. With the elaborately designed, innovative closure system, the shoe fits exactly to the foot, almost like a second skin. The high quality Vibram XS Grip offers plenty of edge stability and a sensitivity for the tread underfoot, as well as excellent friction features. This creates confidence in the shoe! Great balance and dynamic flexibility are guaranteed on all route types, thanks to the MRRB (Maximum Range in Response and Balance) system. The SXRDynamics system ensures both comfort and excellent performance, by utilizing the foot's natural properties. Synthetic leather allows the Oasi to maintain its great fit over time, without wearing out. A soft cotton footbed absorbs sweat and contributes to a high level of comfort. Fans of upside-down bouldering, or those who feel most at home within the upper difficulty levels of sport climbing: the Oasi from Tenaya is definitely the right shoe for you!
Tenaya Oasi Climbing shoes (6, black/grey) - Proving that comfort and high performance aren't mutually exclusive terms - the Oasi from Tenaya! The strongly pre-stressed shoe puts lots of pressure on the toes; as such, accurate footing on small structures such as an overhang or the roof of a bouldering cave no longer poses a problem. At the same time the fit ensures that the shoe is very comfortable to wear. With the elaborately designed, innovative closure system, the shoe fits exactly to the foot, almost like a second skin. The high quality Vibram XS Grip offers plenty of edge stability and a sensitivity for the tread underfoot, as well as excellent friction features. This creates confidence in the shoe! Great balance and dynamic flexibility are guaranteed on all route types, thanks to the MRRB (Maximum Range in Response and Balance) system. The SXRDynamics system ensures both comfort and excellent performance, by utilizing the foot's natural properties. Synthetic leather allows the Oasi to maintain its great fit over time, without wearing out. A soft cotton footbed absorbs sweat and contributes to a high level of comfort. Fans of upside-down bouldering, or those who feel most at home within the upper difficulty levels of sport climbing: the Oasi from Tenaya is definitely the right shoe for you!
Tenaya Oasi Climbing shoes (6, black/grey) - Proving that comfort and high performance aren't mutually exclusive terms - the Oasi from Tenaya! The strongly pre-stressed shoe puts lots of pressure on the toes; as such, accurate footing on small structures such as an overhang or the roof of a bouldering cave no longer poses a problem. At the same time the fit ensures that the shoe is very comfortable to wear. With the elaborately designed, innovative closure system, the shoe fits exactly to the foot, almost like a second skin. The high quality Vibram XS Grip offers plenty of edge stability and a sensitivity for the tread underfoot, as well as excellent friction features. This creates confidence in the shoe! Great balance and dynamic flexibility are guaranteed on all route types, thanks to the MRRB (Maximum Range in Response and Balance) system. The SXRDynamics system ensures both comfort and excellent performance, by utilizing the foot's natural properties. Synthetic leather allows the Oasi to maintain its great fit over time, without wearing out. A soft cotton footbed absorbs sweat and contributes to a high level of comfort. Fans of upside-down bouldering, or those who feel most at home within the upper difficulty levels of sport climbing: the Oasi from Tenaya is definitely the right shoe for you!
Last updated at 07/24/2024 09:03:36
originally posted on backcountrygear.com
0.5 down from street size (I'm normally a 10, so 9.5 in these) and it fits perfectly. Tried 9s but my feet were getting bruised too much and it hurt a lot. With 9.5s there are still minor marks on my toe knuckles but it's pretty reasonable and very comfortable compared to other shoes.
originally posted on moosejaw.com
I've been climbing in a pair of Oasis for about a year.Pros:-- Supremely comfortable, without sacrificing much performance. I can easily wear them for a long pitch or two before I feel discomfort.-- Super sensitive, and capable in smearing;-- but also fairly precise and capable in edging, as well. That is, a pretty capable shoe all-around.-- Heel is a pretty good fit for me (low-volume heel) and hooks are good.-- Toe rubber is sufficient but not more.Cons:-- The velcro strap system on these shoes is horrible. They wear out quickly, won't stay closed, and flap around in the breeze. Just awful.-- The shoes use the old formulation of the Vibram XS Grip (not XS Grip 2); would hope to see the new one on such a high-end shoe.-- The midsole of the shoe is soft, ... MoreI've been climbing in a pair of Oasis for about a year.Pros:-- Supremely comfortable, without sacrificing much performance. I can easily wear them for a long pitch or two before I feel discomfort.-- Super sensitive, and capable in smearing;-- but also fairly precise and capable in edging, as well. That is, a pretty capable shoe all-around.-- Heel is a pretty good fit for me (low-volume heel) and hooks are good.-- Toe rubber is sufficient but not more.Cons:-- The velcro strap system on these shoes is horrible. They wear out quickly, won't stay closed, and flap around in the breeze. Just awful.-- The shoes use the old formulation of the Vibram XS Grip (not XS Grip 2); would hope to see the new one on such a high-end shoe.-- The midsole of the shoe is soft, meaning it will lose its downturn vs. a shoe like the Solution. But that's usually the trade off for a highly sensitive shoe.-- Durability in the upper is an issue; the rand is delaminating from the upper on both my shoes with only very typical and almost gentle use. But, the soles and the edge-rand seam are holding up very well.Fit:I think the fit is a narrow fit for a men's shoe, but slightly wide for a women's shoe. I found it comparable to and just wider than La Sportiva men's. You will want to size down---I typically wear 39-39.5 in most shoes, but needed a 38.5 in the Oasi. (I wear a 38.5 in the Solutions, and a 40-40.5 in the Katana Lace.) It's hard to say but I feel like mine stretched about 1/4-1/2 a size; a bit more than the Solutions.Overall:A comfortable but highly capable shoe. There are definitely some flaws, but they don't seriously detract from the shoe's total performance. Best for sport climbing indoors or out, since they can handle a variety of terrain, and be worn for long periods without pain.
originally posted on moosejaw.com
I don't really know how to describe all that's great about this shoe. What I think of first is how natural it feels on foot while climbing. To keep it simple, this is a shoe that I more or less forget that I'm wearing, because they are that comfortable (if the narrow last fits your foot that is). Combining that element of zero distraction, with the fact that these have a super precise pointed toe, enough downturn for steeper routes/boulders and a stiff enough toe for decent edging -- you get my go-to shoe.I have had to pick a con, it's that I don't love these for heel hooking. I feel like the Tenaya could improve the heel fit on their shoes a bit. It is good enough where it doesn't detract enough from my overall experience.I find Tenaya's sizing advice to be ... MoreI don't really know how to describe all that's great about this shoe. What I think of first is how natural it feels on foot while climbing. To keep it simple, this is a shoe that I more or less forget that I'm wearing, because they are that comfortable (if the narrow last fits your foot that is). Combining that element of zero distraction, with the fact that these have a super precise pointed toe, enough downturn for steeper routes/boulders and a stiff enough toe for decent edging -- you get my go-to shoe.I have had to pick a con, it's that I don't love these for heel hooking. I feel like the Tenaya could improve the heel fit on their shoes a bit. It is good enough where it doesn't detract enough from my overall experience.I find Tenaya's sizing advice to be pretty spot on. They recommend about 1 full size down from street shoe. My street shoe is 11.5/12 and I wear these in an 11 and a 10.5 and they are both great. If you really wanted to size down more, you probably could, but don't be fooled by the comfort of the shoe! I don't think it's entirely necessary to size down so much in these.I would also recommend the Oasi LV, Tarifa and Mundaka (Mundakas fit a bit wider up front).
| Fitzroy Pickup | 1 |
| Uppers | Microfibre |
| Lining | TXT treated cotton |
| Sizing from Street Size | Down 1.5 - 2 |
| Rubber | Soft |
0.5 down from street size (I'm normally a 10, so 9.5 in these) and it fits perfectly. Tried 9s but my feet were getting bruised too much and it hurt a lot. With 9.5s there are still minor marks on my toe knuckles but it's pretty reasonable and very comfortable compared to other shoes.
I've been climbing in a pair of Oasis for about a year.Pros:-- Supremely comfortable, without sacrificing much performance. I can easily wear them for a long pitch or two before I feel discomfort.-- Super sensitive, and capable in smearing;-- but also fairly precise and capable in edging, as well. That is, a pretty capable shoe all-around.-- Heel is a pretty good fit for me (low-volume heel) and hooks are good.-- Toe rubber is sufficient but not more.Cons:-- The velcro strap system on these shoes is horrible. They wear out quickly, won't stay closed, and flap around in the breeze. Just awful.-- The shoes use the old formulation of the Vibram XS Grip (not XS Grip 2); would hope to see the new one on such a high-end shoe.-- The midsole of the shoe is soft, ... MoreI've been climbing in a pair of Oasis for about a year.Pros:-- Supremely comfortable, without sacrificing much performance. I can easily wear them for a long pitch or two before I feel discomfort.-- Super sensitive, and capable in smearing;-- but also fairly precise and capable in edging, as well. That is, a pretty capable shoe all-around.-- Heel is a pretty good fit for me (low-volume heel) and hooks are good.-- Toe rubber is sufficient but not more.Cons:-- The velcro strap system on these shoes is horrible. They wear out quickly, won't stay closed, and flap around in the breeze. Just awful.-- The shoes use the old formulation of the Vibram XS Grip (not XS Grip 2); would hope to see the new one on such a high-end shoe.-- The midsole of the shoe is soft, meaning it will lose its downturn vs. a shoe like the Solution. But that's usually the trade off for a highly sensitive shoe.-- Durability in the upper is an issue; the rand is delaminating from the upper on both my shoes with only very typical and almost gentle use. But, the soles and the edge-rand seam are holding up very well.Fit:I think the fit is a narrow fit for a men's shoe, but slightly wide for a women's shoe. I found it comparable to and just wider than La Sportiva men's. You will want to size down---I typically wear 39-39.5 in most shoes, but needed a 38.5 in the Oasi. (I wear a 38.5 in the Solutions, and a 40-40.5 in the Katana Lace.) It's hard to say but I feel like mine stretched about 1/4-1/2 a size; a bit more than the Solutions.Overall:A comfortable but highly capable shoe. There are definitely some flaws, but they don't seriously detract from the shoe's total performance. Best for sport climbing indoors or out, since they can handle a variety of terrain, and be worn for long periods without pain.
I don't really know how to describe all that's great about this shoe. What I think of first is how natural it feels on foot while climbing. To keep it simple, this is a shoe that I more or less forget that I'm wearing, because they are that comfortable (if the narrow last fits your foot that is). Combining that element of zero distraction, with the fact that these have a super precise pointed toe, enough downturn for steeper routes/boulders and a stiff enough toe for decent edging -- you get my go-to shoe.I have had to pick a con, it's that I don't love these for heel hooking. I feel like the Tenaya could improve the heel fit on their shoes a bit. It is good enough where it doesn't detract enough from my overall experience.I find Tenaya's sizing advice to be ... MoreI don't really know how to describe all that's great about this shoe. What I think of first is how natural it feels on foot while climbing. To keep it simple, this is a shoe that I more or less forget that I'm wearing, because they are that comfortable (if the narrow last fits your foot that is). Combining that element of zero distraction, with the fact that these have a super precise pointed toe, enough downturn for steeper routes/boulders and a stiff enough toe for decent edging -- you get my go-to shoe.I have had to pick a con, it's that I don't love these for heel hooking. I feel like the Tenaya could improve the heel fit on their shoes a bit. It is good enough where it doesn't detract enough from my overall experience.I find Tenaya's sizing advice to be pretty spot on. They recommend about 1 full size down from street shoe. My street shoe is 11.5/12 and I wear these in an 11 and a 10.5 and they are both great. If you really wanted to size down more, you probably could, but don't be fooled by the comfort of the shoe! I don't think it's entirely necessary to size down so much in these.I would also recommend the Oasi LV, Tarifa and Mundaka (Mundakas fit a bit wider up front).
I was super psyched about the Tenaya Oasi because I had heard good things from friends. Unfortunately though, I had to return them because the heel cup was just too baggy for my very low volume heel. I am a 5ft. tall female and no amount of downsizing was going to fill in the heel which had about a half inch of dead space (I have the same problem with almost all of 5.10 shoes). On the plus side, these shoes were super comfy, the toe box leaves room for your toes to be slightly curled without crushing them, which allows powerful and accurate footwork. The inside has a soft cushiony sock like the Solution and didn't rub over my ankle bone. The closure is adjustable so you can make them as snug as you like. The sizing is big, so downsize more than you think, at least 2 ... MoreI was super psyched about the Tenaya Oasi because I had heard good things from friends. Unfortunately though, I had to return them because the heel cup was just too baggy for my very low volume heel. I am a 5ft. tall female and no amount of downsizing was going to fill in the heel which had about a half inch of dead space (I have the same problem with almost all of 5.10 shoes). On the plus side, these shoes were super comfy, the toe box leaves room for your toes to be slightly curled without crushing them, which allows powerful and accurate footwork. The inside has a soft cushiony sock like the Solution and didn't rub over my ankle bone. The closure is adjustable so you can make them as snug as you like. The sizing is big, so downsize more than you think, at least 2 sizes below your street shoe and take into account about a 1/2 size of stretch. If Tenaya made a female version with a low volume heel I would definitely buy them. Super bummed they didn't fit
Been climbing for about 6 years off and on(two pulley injuries) and I've worn five ten for maybe 4 years now. I've worn and owned multiple pairs of the purple and new blue quantums, old dragons, blue, black and green team shoes and I'm currently on my third pair of hi angles, I always thought five ten fit my foot well. I will say to this date I have not found a shoe that fits my foot better than these shoes did straight from the box, he first time I wore them was a day trip outside. I've just never worn shoes that have been as good as these shoes are at all of the things they are good at such as, sensitive rubber, custom adjusting strap system, flexible kinda split sole and soft insole against skin.These shoes just provide less pressure points to my feet and shape ... MoreBeen climbing for about 6 years off and on(two pulley injuries) and I've worn five ten for maybe 4 years now. I've worn and owned multiple pairs of the purple and new blue quantums, old dragons, blue, black and green team shoes and I'm currently on my third pair of hi angles, I always thought five ten fit my foot well. I will say to this date I have not found a shoe that fits my foot better than these shoes did straight from the box, he first time I wore them was a day trip outside. I've just never worn shoes that have been as good as these shoes are at all of the things they are good at such as, sensitive rubber, custom adjusting strap system, flexible kinda split sole and soft insole against skin.These shoes just provide less pressure points to my feet and shape to my foot much better than other brands of shoes I've worn. I will say compared to my hi angle smallest sizing( US 10) these shoes run a full size large. Based off my foot and how I size my bouldering shoes (tighter for bouldering, I would recommend a full size down from a five ten hi angle if you want them to boulder with but even matching sizes still works for rope or all day climbing just as good. I've only worn them once so I can't speak about longevity of straps or basic shoe construction however l climbed at my current limit just fine and felt more comfortable in the oasi's than I did in my broken in outdoor pair of hi angles.
Tenaya has succeeded in doing what they set out to do: match comfort with performance. These shoes slip on like a sock but still have an aggressive toe that feels solid for edging. The perfect sport climbing shoe! I ordered 1 full size down from my US womens street shoe and they fit perfectly
I have been wearing the same pair for two years now, resoled twice, ready to purchase a fresh pair of the same size and style. Excellent use deep water soloing, techy vertical slap, steep and overhanging with heel and toes hooking, by far my preferred shoe. I keep finding myself trying to use my scarpa instincts or my sportiva solutions, but I always find my self grabbing the Tenaya Oasi. Been wearing la sportiva for the majority of my 9 year climbing career, 90% outdoors, and have found myself leaning toward the Tenayas most consistently. Precise, comfortable, agressive without pain, and suprisingly durable. Have not tried any of the other styles, but I like what I like.
Tenaya makes some really high quality climbing shoes. These shoes are essentially a slipper with a couple straps on top. Absolutely love em. They also look pretty rad. The rubber is some pretty high quality stuff (it's vibram, go figure), and the tensioned rand is just right. As I read in some other product reviews, it sits right in the 'goldilocks zone,' Not too soft for outdoor climbing, and not too hard for indoor climbing. The shape of the shoe is perfect for heel hooks and toe hooks, and really anything, they also SMEAR great.,,,,Based on my experience, most of the people reading reviews for climbing shoes are looking for sizing tips. So here's my two-cents. I'm about a 10-10.5 US (43-44 EU) street shoe and I got a 8.5 US which feels just right (still had to ... MoreTenaya makes some really high quality climbing shoes. These shoes are essentially a slipper with a couple straps on top. Absolutely love em. They also look pretty rad. The rubber is some pretty high quality stuff (it's vibram, go figure), and the tensioned rand is just right. As I read in some other product reviews, it sits right in the 'goldilocks zone,' Not too soft for outdoor climbing, and not too hard for indoor climbing. The shape of the shoe is perfect for heel hooks and toe hooks, and really anything, they also SMEAR great.,,,,Based on my experience, most of the people reading reviews for climbing shoes are looking for sizing tips. So here's my two-cents. I'm about a 10-10.5 US (43-44 EU) street shoe and I got a 8.5 US which feels just right (still had to squeeze in when I first got em). I started with the 8, but it was just too painful. But also, I have a pretty FAT (high volume) foot, so maybe if you have a slender 10-10.5 US foot, you could fit into an 8.
From the second you put this shoe on you notice how comfortable it is out of the box. The Oasi fits in exactly the same size as the la sportiva solution, and remains true to size without hardly any stretch. The best part? NO PAIN! The combination of a more flexible midsole with the comfortability of the sock like lycra tongue gives you the sensitivity and performance I was looking for without my toes going numb in mere minutes. The shoe started out perfect for steeper terrain, but as it broke in and the edge got a little less precise, it's become my go-to shoe for slabbier, vertical climbing. I feel like i can stand on a dime edge with these bad boys. For a more aggressive shoe, also check out the Iati (same size again as LS Solutions) a stiffer midsole and toe box, ... MoreFrom the second you put this shoe on you notice how comfortable it is out of the box. The Oasi fits in exactly the same size as the la sportiva solution, and remains true to size without hardly any stretch. The best part? NO PAIN! The combination of a more flexible midsole with the comfortability of the sock like lycra tongue gives you the sensitivity and performance I was looking for without my toes going numb in mere minutes. The shoe started out perfect for steeper terrain, but as it broke in and the edge got a little less precise, it's become my go-to shoe for slabbier, vertical climbing. I feel like i can stand on a dime edge with these bad boys. For a more aggressive shoe, also check out the Iati (same size again as LS Solutions) a stiffer midsole and toe box, but again - no pain.
Ok so I have had multiple LS Soultions and had always been happy, a friend recommended Oasi for a more comfortable gym shoe.. HOLY cow, these are the most flexible aggressive bouldering shoes I have ever put on, I feel with how soft they are I may burn through them much quicker but with the build quality and comfort I’m MORE than happy to pay for another. I’m a convert to this Incredible and soft shoe and if you are looking for something to compete and possibly surpass (on comfort) the solutions look no further and be happy.PS — downsize a full size! This coming from someone who complains about comfort and didn’t downsize their solutions at all and downsized their Oasi a half size. After doing the “hot shower” breaking in method 2-3 times these stretched easily a ... MoreOk so I have had multiple LS Soultions and had always been happy, a friend recommended Oasi for a more comfortable gym shoe.. HOLY cow, these are the most flexible aggressive bouldering shoes I have ever put on, I feel with how soft they are I may burn through them much quicker but with the build quality and comfort I’m MORE than happy to pay for another. I’m a convert to this Incredible and soft shoe and if you are looking for something to compete and possibly surpass (on comfort) the solutions look no further and be happy.PS — downsize a full size! This coming from someone who complains about comfort and didn’t downsize their solutions at all and downsized their Oasi a half size. After doing the “hot shower” breaking in method 2-3 times these stretched easily a full size.
| Fitzroy Pickup | 1 |
| Uppers | Microfibre |
| Lining | TXT treated cotton |
| Sizing from Street Size | Down 1.5 - 2 |
| Rubber | Soft |
